Curving cellulose collar blanks by differential shrinking with chemical shrinking agents



1E. A. WOOD CURVING CELLULOSEF- COLLAR BLANKS BY DIFFERENTIAL SHRINKING WIN- CHEMICAL SHRINKING AGENTS FilOfi NOV. 16, 1949 A g gomoo M a j I,

F16 1. Aj I; 1

,47 INVENTOR.

' un Q l Patented July 28, 1953 CURVING CELLULGSE COLLAR BLANKS BY DIFFERENTIAL SHRINKING WITH CHEM- ICAL SHRINKING AGENTS Ernest Alfred Wood, Manchester, England, as-

signor to Hogg & Mitchell Limited, Manchester,

England Application November 16, 1949, Serial No. 127,717 In Great Britain August 17., 1946 4 Claims.

The present invention relates to a process for imparting a curvilinear form to oblong pieces of cotton or viscose fabrics, and more particularly to collar blanks made of cotton and/or viscose.

This application is a continuation-in-part of patent application Serial No. 767,645, now abancloned, filed August 8, 1947, for Collars and Cuffs for Personal Wear.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a process for imparting a curvilinear form to oblong pieces of the fabrics described which does not result in a cockling of the fabric along the junction of the treated and untreated portions thereof.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a process by Which a sufficient degree of curvature is obtained, particularly with collar blanks.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a process which takes only a short time for carrying out so that it can be applied industrially at a large scale.

It is still another object of the invention to provide a process of the kind described which is simple and inexpensive to carry out.

It is a still further object of the invention to provide a collar having a curvilinear form and being free from cockling.

According to the present invention a process for imparting a curvilinear form to oblong pieces of cotton or viscose fabrics such as collar blanks comprises the steps of applying a shrinking liquid to the fabric, and treating the fabric with a liquid neutralizing any surplus shrinking liquid. For the purposes of the following specification and claims I Wish it to be understood that by shrinking liquid I mean to denote any liquid selected from the liquids enumerated hereinafter.

In a preferred embodiment of my invention the shrinking liquid is applied to the fabric so as to cause in the fabric strata of increasing shrinkage in a direction starting at one of the longitudinal edges of the fabric.

Preferably the fabric is subjected to applications of shrinking liquids of different, preferably decreasing strength starting from one of the longitudinal edges of the fabric, and the depth of the applications is successively increased in a direction to the other longitudinal edge of the fabric so as to cause in the fabric strata of decreasing shrinkage from one longitudinal edge tially at right angles to one of the longitudinal edges of the fabric, the latter is dipped. into a shrinking liquid with the longitudinal edge of the fabric arranged at an angle of substantially 30 to the surface of the shrinking liquid, the fabric is withdrawn from the shrinking liquid and treated with a liquid neutralising the surplus shrinking liquid.

According to a preferred process according to the invention for imparting a curvilinear form to collar blanks made of cotton or viscose fabrics, caustic soda is applied to an area adjoining the longitudinal edge of the collar band. Preferably the caustic soda is applied in separate steps of successively decreasing strength to areas adjoining the longitudinal edge of the collar band and successivel increasing in size.

The application of the shrinking liquid can be done according to this invention either by dipping the fabric into the liquid or by spraying the shrinking liquid on the fabric or by printing the fabric with shrinking liquid.

Instead of a caustic soda the invention can be carried out with other substances as shrinking agent such as potassium hydroxide,. zinc chloride, calcium thiocyanate, sulphuric and nitric acid,

and hydroxides of other metals belonging to the alkali group of the periodic system of elements.

The process according to the present invention is applicable to fabrics which consist of cotton, furthermore to a laminated cloth, 1. e, cloth comprising a cotton face, an acetate and cotton interlining, and a cotton back. Three separate cloths of the type described may be fused together by a Trubenizing process.

The process according to the present invention is also applicable to three-beam cloth consisting of a cotton face and a cotton back, cotton binders, and acetate padding threads. It is equally applicable to viscose cloths or to cloths consisting of cotton and viscose.

The process is particularly suitable for the following types of collars:

Three-beam heavy collar blanks of the semistlff type made solely of cotton; three-beam heavy semi-stiff collars made with heavy back and face, cotton binders, and acetate padding threads. This collar can be fused after curving after fusing in a manner applicable to Trubenized collars;

Collars made from laminated cloth, i. e. having. a cotton face and bottom cloth, acetate and cotton lining (Truben'ized) Collars consisting of viscose and cotton.

The novel features which I consider as characteristicfor my invention are set forth in particular in the appended claims. The invention itself,

however, both as to its construction and its method of operation, together with additional objects and advantages thereof, will be best understood from the following description of specific embodiments when read in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 shows a front elevation of a collar or collar blank mounted on a frame for immersion in a bath;

Fig. 2 rear elevation of same;

Fig. 3 shows the curvilinear form given to a collar after treatment;

Fig. 4 shows inside elevation a second embodiment of a frame for immersing a collar blank.

The fabric after weaving is cut to the shape of or made up into collars the fold line of which is uncurved, each collar being mounted on a frame for lowering into a bath of mercerising liuuor. The frame comprises a plate I provided with a series of a ertures 2 spaced apart at the intervals to correspond with varying sizes of collars. An arm 3 formed with a rojectin stud 4 is secured to the plate I by nine 5 engaging appropriate pairs of apertures 2, the arm bein retained in position by a spring clip 6. A second arm I is pivoted intermediate its ends to the rear of the plate I on a pin 8 and is capable of movement between two stons 9 on the plate I. A stud Ill similar to the stud 4 is provided on the lowered end of the arm I the upper end being connected to the plate I by a spring H.

The plate I is mounted on a rod or spindle I2 by which it may be suspended.

The collar blank A having a collar band a and an outer fold a made larger than the required finished size is mounted on the studs 4 and II] by inserting the studs throu h the usual collar stud slots 1) in the collar band the outer fold a being held against the plate I by a spring clip I3 mo nted thereon.

The collar is lowered successively into a plurality of baths containing mercerising solution at difiering stren ths varying between 56 Tw. and 25 Tw. the first immersion of for example 1% seconds being the shallowest in the strongest solution, subsequent immersions in succeeding baths being deeper and deeper in weaker and weaker solutions and may include total submersion.

The lower edge of the collar band contracts the maximum amount, the degree of contraction diminishing gradually over the remainder of the collar. bringing the pivoted arm I to one extreme position against the action of the spring II in contact with a stop 9 which represents the correct length for a collar of the particular size.

The collar on the frame is then passed through water sprays or baths to remove surplus alkali and is then dipped in a bath of weak acid for example hydrochloric acid of say /2" to 1 Tw. to neutralise any alkali remaining in the fabric after which the collar is washed and ironed.

It has been found that in a collar treated as above described the warp yarns contract differentially and draw the fabric into a curvilinear form without puckering to fit the neck of the wearer.

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 4 of the drawing a rod or spindle I2 carries a plate I to which are attached an arm 3 by means of a spring clip 6 and pins 5 engaging appropriate pairs of apertures 2. The arm 3 is in this embodiment provided with an inclined extension I carrying on each side a stud I5 at its lower end to which the buttonholes of the collar A are attached. On the other end of the plate I is provided a second arm I which'is pivotable about a pin 8. A spring II tends to turn the arm I so that its lower portion or extension I6 moves away from the extension I l of the arm 3. The lower portion I6 of arm 7 is provided with an end portion I! which is projecting outwards in order to hold the center 0 of the collar A in position. The arms 3 and I and the extensions I4 and I6 are so dimensioned that the lower edge of the collar band a is inclined at an angle of about 30 to the horizontal.

The operation of this device is as follows:

The collar is attached to the extensions I4 and I6 so that the center portion 0 of the collar engages the extension IE whereas the end portions 11 of the. collar having the slots b are attached to the extension M. The collar therefore will be inclined about 30 to the level of the bath B. The collar is dipped in this position in the bath and the central portion 0 is subject to shrinking. The arm I is turned a little about its pin 8, the spring II holding the arm I with extension I6 tight against the middle portion 0 of the collar.

If the shrinking liquid is a solution of caustic soda the collar on the frame shown in Fig. 4 is lowered into a tank for 1 /2 seconds or any other time suificient for the immersed portion of the collar to be thoroughly saturated with the caustic soda and allow it to curve. The time can be varied. Similarly the depth of the immersion should be A; (three quarters) inches in caustic soda of the strength of about 55 Tw. But the A (three quarters) inches need not be taken as the only efiective depth, but does give the desired degree of curvature when the collar is dipped at an angle of about 30 to the horizontal.

After the initial dip of 1 seconds the collar is withdrawn for 2% seconds. Then it is redipped in the same bath for a further 1 /2 seconds to insure that thorough saturation has resulted. More than two dips can be given if required.

By this time the collar has started to curve, this being denoted by spring II being under tension.

The collar is then allowed to idle for 10 to 20 seconds to insure that the caustic soda has been effective. Then the article is dipped in another tank up to the fold line. This trank acts as a modifier and its main function is to neutralize the cockling that may have developed at the juncture of the treated and untreated portions after the treatment in the first bath. The strength of this bath may be 35 to 30 Tw. or below that, depending on the texture of the collar to be treated. The collar may receive one or more dips before the desired effect is obtained.

After curving the caustic soda in the collar may be neutralized by immersing the collar in a weak bath of hydrochloric acid of to 1 Tw. or the collar may be washed in a wash wheel for half an hour until it is freed from caustic.

Alternatively a process similar to the one just described may be applied, but one tank only of strength 15 to 18 Tw. is provided into which the collar is dipped up to the fold line and then left on the collar holder overnight. The caustic liquid accumulates under gravity along the bottom edge of the collar band and owing to evaporation the strength of the residual caustic is increased and causes the collar to curve. Puckering can be removed by ironing after the caustic has been removed by washing.

Alternatively a spraying method can be applied in which the collar is held in a frame according to Figs. I and 2 and sprayed with-- caustic soda of to TW. an area E adjoining the lower edge of the center portion of the collar band (Fig. 3) and reaching upwards forabout half theheight of the collarband. The spraying time should be about 5 seconds and suflici'ent caustic should be used to soak the cloth. A further 1'0 seconds is allowed for the collar to curve and then it is respra-yed in an areaF starting from the lower edge of the collar band and reaching up to the fold line (Fig. 3) with a caustic strength of 35 to 40 Tw. for 5 seconds. This will act as a modifier and counteract anytendency to pucker after the first treatment. Then the caustic is neutralized with hydrochloricacidof /2V o 1.Tw. or washed in water in a wash wheel.

Instead of spraying with caustic soda a printing process may be applied. The caustic: soda is applied to the collar ina series, of dots. Preferably only onestrength of caustic sodazis used in this methodthroughout;

Potassium hydroxide, may be used as a, shrinking liquid in whichcase the collar is held on the frame shown in Fig. el and lowered into. a. bath of potassium hydroxide of: maximum strength of 38 Tw. up to the fold line. The collar is allowed to absorb the liquid for about 5 seconds. It is then removed and left to stand for two minutes or less. Then it is washed with cold water after which treatment it will have taken on a curvilinear form. This is followed by a further Wash in hot, preferably boiling water. To insure complete freedom from the potassium hydroxide the collar should be soured in a weak acid.

In an alternative method two or more tanks of various strength of potassium hydroxide are used. In the case of two tanks, the strengths to be applied are 38 Tw. and 30 Tw. in which the collar is dipped for 5 seconds and 3 seconds, respectively.

The procedure is the same as that hereinbefore described, the intermediate time between tanks being 9 seconds.

Another example of a shrinking liquid is a solution of zinc chloride which is prepared as a bath containing 59% by weight of zinc chloride at a temperature of 65 and 71 C. In 5 to 10 seconds the collar will react to the chemical and obtain a curvilinear form. The zinc chloride is removed from the cloth by washing in cold water followed by a further wash in hot water.

Alternatively calcium thiocyanate may be used as a shrinking liquid. The collar is dipped at an angle of 30 into a bath containing by weight of calcium thiocyanate at room tempera:

ture. In about 8 seconds the collar attains a curvilinear form. The calcium thiocyanate is then removed by washing in cold water followed by a washing in hot water which is followed by souring the collar in weak hydrochloric acid.

If desired sulphuric acid may be used as a shrinking liquid. At a strength of 100 Tw. sulphuric acid gives a limited shrinkage but has the disadvantage of causing parchmentisation of the fabric. A treating time of 30 seconds maximum is sufiicient. The acid is removed by washing with cold water and finishing off with a weak ammonia wash.

Other shrinking liquids are nitric acid of a strength of 83 to 84 Tw., lithium hydroxide, rhubidium hydroxide, and caesium hydroxide.

When employing lithium hydroxide in a single tank a 10% solution in water is used and the time of immersion of the collar is 7 to 10 seconds.

For caesium hydroxide or rhubidium hydroxide parting in any way 6 a- 60%iso1utlon.in water is employed in each case and the time of immersion: is again 7 to 10 seconds.

The collars to be dipped; in lithium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide or rhubidiumv hydroxide. are treated as hereinbefore described with reference to'the neutralising of the surplus shrinking liquid.

' It will be understood'that each of the elements described above, ortwo or more together, may also find a useful application in other types of processes for imparting a curvilinear form to oblong pieces ofi cotton or viscose fabrics differing from the types described above.

While I have illustrated and describedthe invention as embodied in processes for imparting a curvilinear form to collar blanks made of -cotton 'or viscose fabrics, I donot intend to be limited to" the details shown, since various modifications and structural changes may be made without defrom the spiritof my'inven Without further analysis, the foregoing will so fully reveal the gist of my invention that others can byapplying current knowledge readily adapt it for various applications without omitting features that, from the standpoint of prior art, fairly constitute essential characteristics of the generic or specific aspects of this invention and, therefore, such adaptations should and are intended to be comprehended within the meaning and range of equivalence of the following claims.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A process for imparting a curvilinear form to a collar blank made of a cellulose fabric, comprising the steps of chemically shrinking to a first predetermined degree, with a chemical shrinking solution for cellulose fabric, a first area of said collar blank located along the free 1ongitudinal edge of the collar band of said collar blank; chemically shrinking to a second predetermined degree less than said first predeter mined degree, with a chemical shrinking solution for cellulose fabric, a second area of said collar blank located about and next to said first area; and removing from each of said areas the chemical shrinking solution with which it is shrunk.

I .2. A process for shrinking a collar blank made of a cellulose fabric so as to impart a curvilinear form to the collar blank, comprising the steps of dipping a first area of said collar blank located along the free longitudinal edge of the collar band into a first chemical shrinking solution, for the cellulose fabric, of a first predetermined strength; removing said first area of said collar blank from said first chemical shrinking solution after said first area of said collar blank has shrunk to a desired degree; subsequently dipping a second area of said collar blank which is greater than and includes said first area into a second chemical shrinking solution, for the cellulose fabric, of a second predetermined strength which is weaker than said first predetermined strength; removing said second area of said collar blank from said second chemical shrinking solution after said second area has shrunk to a desired degree, so that said first area is shrunk to a greater degree than the portion of said second area located beyond said first area; and removing the shrinking solutions from said areas.

3. A process for shrinking-a collar blank made of cellulose fabric so as to impart a curvilinear form to the collar blank, comprising the steps of spraying with a first chemical shrinking solution, for cellulose fabric, of a first predetermined strength a first area of said collar blank located along the free longitudinal edge of the collar band of said collar blank; then spraying with a second chemical shrinking solution, for the cellulose fabric, of a second predetermined strength weaker than said first predetermined strength a second area of said collar blank which is greater than and includes said first area, so that said first area is shrunk to a greater degree than the portion of said second area located beyond said first area; and removing said chemical shrinking solutions from said collar blank.

4. A process for shrinking a collar blank made of a cellulose fabric so as to impart a curvilinear form to the collar blank, comprising the steps of dipping a first area of said collar blank located along the free longitudinaledge of the collar band into a first chemical shrinking solution, for the cellulose fabric, of a first predetermined strength; removing said first area ofsaid collar blank from said first chemical shrinking solution after said first area of said collar blank has shrunk to a desired degree; subsequently 8 pping a-second area of said collar blank which is greater than and includes said first area into a second chemical shrinking solution, for the cellulose fabric, of a second predetermined strength which is weaker than said first predetermined strength; removing said second area of said collar blank from said second chemical shrinking solution after said second area has shrunk to a desired degree, so that said first area is shrunk to a greater degree than the portion of said second area located beyond said first area; and washing the thus dipped areas to remove the shrinking solutions therefrom.

- ERNEST ALFRED WOOD.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 

1. A PROCESS FOR IMPARTING A CURVILINEAR FORM TOA COLLAR BLANK MADE OF A CELLULOSE FABRIC, COMPRISING THE STEPS OF CHEMICALLY SHRINKING TO A FIRST PREDETERMINED DEGREE, WITH A CHEMICAL SHRINKING SOLUTION FOR CELLULOSE FABRIC, A FRIST AREA OF SAID COLLAR BLANK LOCATED ALONG THE FREE LONGITUDINAL EDGE OF THE COLLAR BAND OF SAID COLLAR BLANK; CHEMICALLY SHRINKING TO A SECOND PREDETERMINED DEGREE LESS THAN SAID FIRST PREDETERMINED DEGREE, WITH A CHEMICAL SHRINKING SOLUTION FOR CELLULOSE FABRIC, A SECOND AREA OF SAID COLLAR BLANK LOCATED ABOUT AND NEXT TO SAID FIRST AREA; AND REMOVING FROM EACH OF SAID AREAS THE CHEMICAL SHRINKING SOLUTION WITH WHICH IT IS SHRUNK. 